Made the journey down south with buddy Lawton Smith from Pacifica, to attend the gathering of the big wave tribe in Los Angeles for the Billabong XXL and in San Clemente for the Big Wave World Tour Awards. It was really special this year to hang out with Doc and be infused by this amazing stoke and pride in big wave surfers he has... he reminds how blessed we are and in the process makes us feel so content with the human accomplishment that riding a giant wave really is. Some win this year, others have won other years, some retire, some are new, some should've been nominated, some should be VIPs... whatever!!! it is an important gathering and having Doc from the perspective of a man who has seen some many Winters come and go, be so pumped, for the cosmic nature of our act is just pure bliss! Helps deal with the human reality of new sponsors for this, new businessmen with competitive visions for that... all good if balanced, all good if we don't believe the hype, all good if this is a platform to increase consciousness of endless possibilities for harmony - not illusion of domination - with Mother Nature. Brazilian friend and madman Danilo Couto got Ride of the Year, Jamie Sterling was crowned World Champion, Eric Rebiere and Benjamin Sanchis made history for Europe... lets keep contributing to this cycle of light, hangin' in there and everything will be all right!
No comments:
Post a Comment