Thanksgiving represented total surrender to the Mavericks dragon... pushing my limits and learning in the process the importance of being more than a pro surfer. Crystalizing personal quests and diverse life goals. Check the footage from the day below. Last wave of clip: "somebody just fell out of the sky", says Eric Nelson with Powerlines crew. It was the sheer size and amazing power of the wave that pushed me to catch it, yet it almost dislocated my neck discs putting me out of the water for over two weeks... all things considered it is a blessing to be alive and healthy, and I definitely appreciate that. Wipeouts can be as memorable as completed rides, trying and giving it your best brings happiness is my take!
1 comment:
AWESOME BRO!
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