Wednesday, December 19, 2012

PIECES OF MY LIFE - LOST TAPES from JOÃO DE MACEDO on Vimeo.

experimentos with www.joaodemacedoproject.com :)

Thursday, November 15, 2012

always a blessing to catch up with friends and the big wave family at the Mavericks Ceremony... alot made sense to me some yrs back here at Mavericks and being in the circle reminds me of that and is a highlight every year :) amping to make the Mavericks list and in the meantime happy to just surf, be in the water and be part of the community at this magical place // sempre uma bencao estar com os amigos e familia de ondas grandes... realmente tudo fez sentido para mim em termos de carreira nas ondas grandes aqui em Mavericks e estar no circulo e um momento super especial todos os anos :) cheio de vontade claro de estar na lista oficial de Mavericks, mas no entretanto super feliz de poder surfar, estar dentro de agua e fazer parte da comunidade deste lugar magico. obg. Seth Migdail for the shot!

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Final Rankings: 4th Place on 2011/12 Big Wave World Tour

the Big Wave World Tour had a short season in 2011/2012. The Southern Hemisphere event in Chile and Peru counted yet the Winter in the North winded down and swells did not connect for the Oregon, Mavericks or Todos Santos events... its been such a journey to arrive at this high spot in surfing and I have to thank my family, friends, Shelly my beautiful (in so many ways!) girlfriend and of course Rip Curl and Noster Capital to getting me there. This result has fueled my environmental energy and work, with Rip Curl Planet, World Surfing Reserves and the recent study lead by NOVA University - Value of Waves and Ocean Culture (www.valueofwaves.org) as my inspiration to train and surf at the level necessary to be part of this amazing world of big wave surfing. Footage from Peru! http://youtu.be/58bPAzsiWl0

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Nelscott Reef, Oregon and making it into the Big Wave World Tour



always positive to check footage from Nelscott, especially with waiting period for this yr. coming in to the last month! amping to make it up there... intense spot... so listening to Kohl's words about the place but also what it takes to make it into the Tour, really inspires me and helps feel the blessings we have as surfers but also appreciate the skills we need to stay at it! Big surfers have alot to give to the world... let's keep the aloha alive!

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

www.surfacademia.com



owning with best friends Pedro Pecas and Miguel Mantero a surf school based out of Praia Grande, Sintra and Carcavelos, Cascais in Portugal (www.surfacademia.com) is one of the coolest things I'm a part of :) coaching groms and teaching people of all ages, shapes and sizes about the power and healing of the ocean and waves... and then witnessing people come to a sense of real appreciation for Nature, through experience (not talk, TV or computer screens!) is a real blessing. power on Surf Academia! // ser dono com melhores amigos Pedro Pecas e Miguel Mantero da escola de surf: www.surfacademia.com é das coisas mais positivas a que estou associado. ensinar a crianças e pessoas de todas as idades, tamanhos e feitios sobre a força dos oceanos e ondas... e depois ser testemunha da capacidade deste meio energético curar desequilibrios psíquicos e físicos e ver estas pessoas "iniciadas" sentirem uma verdadeira apreciação pela Natureza... apreciação vinda de uma experiência pessoal (não pq foi dito ou visto na televisão) é uma autêntica benção. Vibrações Positivas Surf Academia!

Sunday, November 20, 2011

good omens and good people is what the WSR movement is all about


The World Surfing Reserves (WSR) movement (www.worldsurfingreserves.org)was officially launched Dec. 5th 2008 at the Value of Waves Roundtable in Half Moon Bay, California. It was an amazing event, which was part of a long path, which started one year earlier, when I proposed and committed to Save The Waves (STW) to research, create, structure and implement this vision (called World Wave Sites Program at the time!) - I was hired Dec. 2007 to do it. Feels amazing to see how, what had already been thought by many (a global proactive coastal conservation system based on enshrining iconic surf spots) was actually put into practice. The movement has so many thanks and influences to show appreciation for, from Yvon Chouinard's "surfing heritage" quote in the "Lost Jewel of the Atlantic" to STW Founder Will Henry but special thanks and aloha also go to STW Board Member Greg Benoit who through considerable resistance, believed in putting the Roundtable on and effectively launching the WSR program in 2008. Things are still in flux and there is lots of work ahead... good omens and good people surround it, making it possible if not necessary to keep it up!

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Big Wave World Tour 2011 - Pico Alto, Peru



Thinking back to making this drop in the final of the Big Wave World Tour this late August in Peru, can´t stop but to feel how big wave surfing really has a really significant contribution to make to the surf industry as whole. I feel we can assist in reaching out to all ocean people by transitioning from an exclusively based "beach culture" - entrenched in classic Southern California - to a more "ocean culture" surfing world, which can be inspired from the mountains (literally!) of energy emanating from big wave spots around the world, of which Northern California "owns" probably the mightiest. A fundamental respect glows from fishermen, yacht and boat people, divers and just random coastal gazers who witness and see what big wave surfing is all about. Not who is the gnarliest this or that... not this wave is the heaviest or not... but just an elite group of humans taking their skills to the highest level to interact with the raw force and beauty of the occeans and its waves.
Thanks to Doc and Abe Paskowitz for keeping so many of us in this big wave community inspired and active. Aloha.